Frequently Asked Questions

National guides put installed spray foam at about $1.50 to $5.00 per square foot. HomeGuide lists a whole house at $8,000 to $20,000 and a roof deck at $1,500 to $9,000. Closed cell costs more than open cell. We measure and send a written price.

It costs more than blown-in, it has to cure with the house empty for a period, and it can hide roof sheathing or foundation walls from inspectors. Sprayed over a leak or wet wood, it can trap moisture. That is why we fix water problems first and leave termite inspection gaps.

Usually because it was put on wrong: sprayed too thick in one pass, over wet wood, or without a plan for roof or termite inspections. Some buyers and lenders ask questions about foam on roof decks. Removal is slow and costly, so getting the plan right the first time matters.

Most of the worry traces back to poor installs, odors from foam that did not cure properly, and inspectors who cannot see the roof deck. A careful install with the right foam for the space, proper ventilation while it cures, and paperwork listing what was used addresses most of it.

Open cell is common on the roof deck over attic ductwork. Closed cell goes under raised floors, on crawl space walls, on metal and anywhere that can flood, since FEMA rates only closed-cell foam acceptable for flood-prone areas. On a plain attic floor, sealing plus blown-in is usually the better value.

Georgia Power serves Savannah and lists rebates for attic insulation and air sealing in its Home Energy Improvement Program, with rules on existing insulation levels and on who installs air sealing. Check the program page for current amounts.

Where humid air leaking in is the main problem, often yes, especially with ductwork in the attic or a raised floor open to wind. On a plain attic floor, sealing plus blown-in usually gets similar comfort for less, and we will quote both.

Not as a rule. Foam has to bond to wood, block or metal, so old batts in the way get pulled out first.

It can if it covers areas your pest company needs to see. Talk with them before foam goes on foundation walls; we leave inspection gaps and can work around their requirements.

Foam is not food for mold, but foam sprayed over wet wood or a leak traps the moisture there. That is why water problems are fixed and wood is dry before we spray.

Many vented crawl spaces here get damp each summer, and sealing them helps if water entry is controlled. Homes in flood zones may need to keep flood vents open, so floor foam can be the better choice there.

A sealed crawl space needs some way to dry out: a dehumidifier or a small supply of conditioned air. We size it to the space and include it on the quote.

For a vented crawl space, a ground liner cuts the moisture rising from the soil but does not stop humid air from coming in through the vents. Full encapsulation does both.

Not if it is planned. We leave a strip at the top of the foundation walls for inspectors and check with your pest company first.

New homes need R-38 under Georgia's code. For an existing attic, the Department of Energy suggests building up to about R-49, which is also the level Georgia Power's rebate rules point to.

If ducts or the air handler are in the attic, roof deck foam often pays off. If not, sealing the ceiling and blowing in insulation usually costs much less for similar comfort.

Yes, when it is wet, moldy, soiled by pests or in the way of air sealing. Otherwise we seal and add on top.

Older Savannah homes are rarely close to that. Bath and kitchen fans should vent outdoors, and we check that gas appliances have proper combustion air.

Yes. Closed-cell foam on the underside of the floor seals and insulates it with no enclosed crawl space needed.

FEMA's flood-resistant materials bulletin rates closed-cell foam acceptable below the flood elevation and open-cell foam unacceptable. Local floodplain rules still apply, so we ask about your flood zone before quoting.

The Department of Energy suggests R-13 for Zone 2 floors, which closed-cell foam reaches in about two to three inches. We list the thickness on the quote.

Closed-cell foam does not soak up water like batts. After a flood the area still needs to be cleaned and dried, and we can check it for damage.

Usually. Batts and loose fill lose much of their value when soaked and can grow mold if they stay damp. Small, quickly dried areas are sometimes fine; we check.

That depends on your policy and the cause. We can give you a written scope and price to send to your insurer.

Not usually for attic vacuuming, since the material goes straight outside. We seal off the work area.

Yes. We bag it, clean the area and reinstall, and suggest a pest company seal entry points first.

Keep humid air off the cold steel. Closed-cell foam sprayed on the panels does that and insulates at the same time.

Usually it needs a thermal or ignition barrier depending on how the space is used. We include what the foam maker and code call for in the quote.

Yes. Foam on the garage ceiling under the room, plus sealing the shared walls, often fixes a hot bonus room.

Doors leak air at the edges. We seal the frame and note if the door needs new weatherstripping or an insulated panel kit.